![]() As before, the part is upside down on the table. The height is set such that the rabbet cutter is flush with the tenon.Ģ. With all the needed ends coped, the sticking bit, 99-051 is mounted in the router. The parts are narrow, so use a crosscut sled or miter gauge with a backer to safely and accurately make you cuts.ġ. The depth of the cut must be the tenon length, plus 1/4″ for the profile cope cut. Once the height is set, then the fence is set. The coping bit 99-050 is chucked into the router and raised to 9/16″, so it is just flush with the tenon with the part upside down on the table. With the tenons milled, the work turns to the router table. ![]() The bottom rabbet will vary depending on the thickness of your parts, but must leave a 1/4″ thick tenon. The upper profile requires a 9/16″ deep rabbet.Ĭut all of the necessary parts, then reset to cut the bottom rabbet. Once the parts are cut to final dimension, The cope cuts on the ends of the rails and muntins must be made. I found it wise to create a sample joint to verify the overall lengths. The rails should be the width of the window, minus the two stiles, plus the length of the tenons, plus 7/16″. The tenons can be whatever size desired, based on the width of the sash parts. Extra dimension needs to be added for the tenons. Once the stock is milled to size, the parts must be cut to final length. Because of this, the bits require a bit more work, but the extra effort is well worth it. The Freud set is designed to make long tenons in the joint connections, making a vastly stronger window. Many manufacturers make sash bits, but most are designed as ‘stub’ tenon bits, working more like a stile and rail door set. This set is Freud’s 99-050 and 99-051 pairing. The second in our complex router bit series is the Window Sash bit set.
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